TL tyres are generally preferred over TT because they are relatively easy to repair in case of punctures. With the TL tyres there is no need to remove the tyre from the rim(which means you dont even have to remove the wheel from the bike and plus your rim is saved from all the damage that is done while the tyre is being removed - and fitted - from the rim).

Plus TL tyres hold air much longer than TT tyres when a puncture occurs. So that means you can ride your bike to a puncture shop instead of having to push it. And even if the tyre is deflated, the sidewalls of TL tyres are much stronger than TT which means you can still ride your bike to a puncture shop.

If your rim is in perfect circular condition without any bends and provided you dont have spoke type wheels, TL is the best option for both you and your rims.

Some people(including me) have tried running a TT tyre in TL form(ofco with the valve changed). In my case it didnt work, but in some cases it works just fine without any leakage issues whatsoever.
If you compare the inner lips (the portion where the rubber meets the rim) of TubeLess and TubeType tyres, you will see that in case of TT tyres there are perpendicular rib like structures. I dont know what they are there for but it was around these spots that air started seeping out.

Vice versa, I dont see any point in putting a tube in a TL tyre just for the heck of it. Only if you have a bent rim or air leakage issues, you may have to put in a tube.
And it is usually better to use the tyre in the way it is meant to be used


NO idea about M45 but pilot sporty is one shitty tyre. I have heard people change it out of disgust within 6 months of installation.

Thanks for clarity there!
So, using a sealant with a TL tyre, seems to be indeed a good option to have!

Thanks,

Ace.

Any comments on this post: ( posted on earlier page)

I have never used a sealant till date nor have i used a TL tyre.

But the theory i know is that the sealant is poured into the tyre and when the tyre rotates, it gets circulated around. When foreign particles liek nails puncture and come in contact with the sealant, it reacts and coagulates around the punctured spot form the inside to form a seal. But you will someday have to remove the nail and i dont know whats happens then. I think normal TL puncture repair is done and everything is good to go.

For the tyre pressure, it all depends on your comfort. If you feel the ride is too bumpy, then leak some air. In rains i feel its better to fill your tyre with higher pressures to avoid hydroplaning provided your tyre grips well and treads havent worn out much.
For the N2 thing, try posting in the Inflating tyres with Nitrogen thread.

Mrf nylogrip RIB/nylorib in front & mrf nylogrip plus (ngp) for city/highway (paved road) use . For mixed & rural roads ... mrf nylogrip moto-c at the rear . In stock sizes for your bullet . This has been a tried & tested staple for enfield bullets for a long time .

Michelin Pilot Sporty is a very good tire but strictly for tarmac.So remember no grip once out of roads.Michelin M45 can offer you very good grip in wet,dry,roads and even little offroading.

It costed me 1750 for the M45 4.0 * 18 and 1650 for 3.0 * 18 in kerala.Heard that Michelin stopped production of M45.

Yups even the dealer in Pune told the same. i will be requiring it for off roading also... now what to do

You can try Sirac.

mrf zapper tires on unicorn

MRF zappers looked good on my unicorn 3months back.but today i saw a

Yamaha FZ-s with mrf zappers but they were different and marked as Zapper-FX. they looked smaller but wider and the treads stretched much wider than the ones on my unicorn.they looked heavier and rugged. the ones on my bike look thin today by comparison.
can i possibly fit these on my bike? i believe fitting heavier tires would mean less mileage and poor pickup.as it is i feel the rear 100/90-18 tire is much too heavy for unicorn.consequently i have reduced pressure from 38 to the Honda recommended 29. I do honestly feel this change has brought
a certain lightness & vigor to the bike some extra vitality! Was this a sissy thing to do? My much respected Mechanic tells me that correct pressure recommended by company is always best to go at speeds of 100kms/h and for my back as well. He has been discouraging me from filling air pressure of 28/38 & succeeded changing it to25/29.(a la Honda!)
On the other hand,would it be possible to fit tubeless tires for this bike? would they be very expensive?& worth the effort & price?

I would be thankful to anyone enlightening me on this.

Thread 'tubeless tyre for enfield 2000 model' approved and merged

Need help..

Hello Friends,

My R15 completed 22K+ and within 3 months I am expecting tyre change (since front and rear tyres threads almost near to finish)

So I have found below good tyres for my R15

Pirelli Tyre
Front - 90/80 - 17 M/C 46S TL or 90/80 - 17 M/C 46P TL
Rear - 100/80 - 17 M/C 52P TL

Michelin Tyre
Front- Michelin Pilot Sporty 90/80 -17 46S
Rear - Michelin Pilot Sporty 110/80 -17 57S

or

I can still go for MRF ? Please suggest

Also where can I find above pirelli or michelin tyre in Pune?

I wont recommend MRF,but heard that R15's MRF is of good quality. Go for Pirelli or Michelin .Decide it after enquiring price details.

Stick to the R-15 stock..Zapper FY 80/90-17 & Zapper S 100/80-17..am i right??..they are pretty damn good...many Indian racers and race techies vouch for this tyre...don't change to a new brand just for the heck of trying something new...

I dont think the pilot sporty comes with a 100 section for 18''..According to their website only 100/90-17 is available..you can go for the Sirac street 100/90-18

recommendations anyone

any recommendations on tube-type tyres for my tvs rtr 160 (2008 model). I am looking for ones with a decent wet-grip, something which the stock tyres lack.. usage is mostly office commute, with an occasional tour to the hills thrown in..

sizes are 100/80-18 rear, 90/90-17 front

I would recommend 90/90-17 mrf zapper fs(TT/TL) for front and 100/90-18 zapper q(TT) or 100/90-18 dunlop geocruiser(TT) for rear.
You wil get both within a total budget of 4k. If you go for TL front, you will have to invest an extra 100-150 bucks for a good TL stainless steel valve.